Install Onyx Shower Base
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Drain clearance when setting the base. Preparing the Floor. Drain Options. Installation Overview. STANDARD SHOWER BASE. Full Height Base. Shower bases, or pans, made of acrylic, fiberglass, or solid-surface material have made shower installation much easier, and today they are often used instead of custom ceramic tile bases, even if the shower walls are tiled.These pans are available in a range of stock sizes or can be custom-fabricated to fill a specific space.
- 1 Tile a Bathroom With Cementboard Walls
- 2 Retile a Shower
- 3 Tile Around a Shower After Removing an Old Fiberglass Shower
- 4 Seal a Fiberglass Shower Pan to a Tile Wall
Prefabricated shower bases are often used when remodeling a bathroom. Made of fiberglass or acrylic, they have an expanded polystyrene (EPS) base and have the correct shower drainage slope on the surface. With the base installed, the walls of the shower can be tiled in a conventional manner. This provides the homeowner with the best of both worlds: attractive, durable tiled walls with a one-piece, leak-proof base.
Place a sheet of cement backer board against the studs, starting with one inside corner. Be sure the backer board sits on top of the lip of the prefabricated shower base. Make a mark on the cement board at the center line of the last full stud it covers. Use the level to draw a plumb line at this point all the way down the cement board. Score the line with a utility knife, then snap board along the line.
Mark the locations of all studs along the top edge of the backer board. Screw the backer board to the studs with cement board screws. Space the screws so that they are approximately 8 inches apart along each stud. The edge of this board will overlap only half of the edge of the last stud it covers.
Place the next sheet of backer board butted up to the first one, then repeat the process of cutting and screwing the board to the studs, each time ending with the edge of the board centered on the last stud it covers. Insidious 3 full movie in hindi dubbed download filmywap. Cut out the holes for the shower fixture or faucet by drilling a small hole large enough to insert a jigsaw blade, then cutting out the larger hole for the fixture with a jigsaw with a masonry blade. Do this until all three walls have backer board installed.
Mix thinset mortar according to the manufacturer's instructions, then apply the thinset along all joints and inside corners. Apply mesh tape to the joints and push it into the thinset with a drywall mud knife. Smooth the thinset that squeezes out with the mud knife.
Place tile spacers flat side down along the shower base where it meets the shower base flange. Temporarily place tiles along the wall, sitting on top of the tile spacers. Due to the premolded slope on most shower bases, the tiles will not appear to be straight along their top edges, or even at the same height. Determine which tile sits the lowest, then make a mark on the backer board just above the top of this tile. Remove the remaining tiles and draw a level, horizontal line all the way around the shower stall. This line is the top edge for all first-row tiles.
Place the first row of tiles along the wall and mark the tile where they need to be cut in order to have the tile's top edge aligned with the line you drew. Cut the tiles on a tile saw. The cuts should be made along the bottom, not top, edge of the tile to hide cut marks.
Apply thinset mortar with a U-notch trowel to the back of each tile and place the tile against the wall, then give it a firm push. The first row tiles must be sitting on the spacers you put down earlier. Alternatively, you may apply thinset directly to the backer board instead of the back of the tile. This method, however. results in more thinset squeezing out into the grout joints, which will need to be cleaned up later. Place tile spacers in between each tile, one near the top and one near the bottom.
Install the remaining rows of tiles, this time placing tile spacers between tiles to space them above the tile below, as well as the tiles beside them. Keep the grout lines perfectly in line both horizontally and vertically with each row. Wait one full day for the thinset to fully cure.
Remove all of the tile spacers and scrape the hardened thinset from between the grout joints with a 5-in-1 painter's tool. Vacuum the joints.
Mix a small batch of grout in a bucket by hand using a margin trowel. Do not mix it with an electric drill. Wait 10 minutes, then remix the grout by hand. Do not add any more water.
Apply grout into the joints with a grout float. Push the grout into the joints, then lift the float on one edge, so that the other edge is flat to the tile. Sweep diagonally across the surface of the tile to smooth the grout into the joints, and wipe off excess grout off the surface of the tile.
Wipe the surface with a damp sponge, after waiting 30 minutes for the grout to slightly harden, to remove excess grout chunks and smears until the surface of the tile looks clean. Rinse the sponge often. Press the sponge into the grout lines with mild finger pressure smooth the joints. This is called 'tooling' the joint.
Wipe the surface of the tile with a clean, dry towel after allowing the grout to cure one full day. The towel removes the dusty haze left on the surface of the tile.
Cut the tip off of the tube of siliconized grout and puncture the inner aluminum seal with the caulking gun's metal rod. Insert the tube into the caulking gun and apply the siliconized grout to all inside corner joints where the walls meet. Also apply the siliconized grout between the shower base and the bottom of the first row of tiles. Siliconized grout is designed to flex, so it will not crack and crumble like grout will in these high-stress areas.
Measuring tape
4-foot level
1/4-inch cement backer board
Utility knife
Jig saw with masonry blade
Backer board screws
Screw gun or drill
Mesh tape
Ceramic tile
Tile saw
Thinset mortar
Mixing bucket
Mixing attachment for drill
U-notched trowel
Tile spacers
5-in-1 painter's tool
Grout
Margin trowel
Sponge
Siliconized grout
Caulking gun
Things You Will Need
Tip
There are multiple ways to lay out the tile, depending on the tile size and the look you want to achieve. For example, the tiles can be laid out starting from the center of the wall and working left and right toward the corners. The far left and far right tiles will be cut to the same size. Alternatively, you can start at one corner and work from one corner to the other so that only one vertical row of tiles will need to be cut.
Warning
Be careful to not drill or screw into water pipes while installing the backer board.
References (3)
About the Author
Emrah Oruc is a general contractor, freelance writer and former race-car mechanic who has written professionally since 2000. He has been published in 'The Family Handyman' magazine and has experience as a consultant developing and delivering end-user training. Oruc holds a Bachelor of Arts in political science and a minor in economics from the University of Delaware.
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Onyx shower panels are easy to cut using standard woodcutting saws. Onyx is a brand name of manufactured materials used in bathroom remodeling. The material is available in a variety of colors, shapes and sizes. Installing an Onyx shower panel requires cutting it to size to fit the dimensions of your wall.
About
The material is fabricated using fiberglass resins, silica and quartz materials that are poured into molds to form the desired shapes. Onyx shower panels are commonly sold in sheets measuring 3-by-8-feet, 4-by-8-feet and 5-by-8-feet for wall installations. Matching shower pans, bases, decorative trims, tubs, lavatories, shower seats and other accessories are also available. Larger wall areas require piecing the material together and covering the seams with decorative trims.
Preparation
According to manufacturer's recommendations, before cutting an Onyx shower panel, it should first be placed on a suitable work surface to avoid damaging it during the process. The flexible material can crack or break if it is not supported correctly during the cut. A set of sawhorses with a 4-by-8-foot sheet of plywood placed across them provides an ideal surface to support the panels during the cutting process.
Considerations
Common cuts required to fit an Onyx panel to a shower wall are its length and width. Bathroom walls are typically out of square or plumb. This leads to making irregular cuts along the shower panel edges so they fit the area properly. Professional installers can make these cuts so tight that trim and corner pieces are not necessary. However, without substantial home improvement skills, these cuts are very difficult. Since you only get one chance to cut the panel, consider using decorative trim and corner pieces to cover the corners and seams between the panels.
Cutting
Onyx shower panels are cut using standard woodcutting saws. A fine-tooth blade attached to a circular saw cuts the panels to width or length nicely. Holes or circles to accommodate shower valves, plumbing and tub spouts are cut using a hole saw attached to a power drill. A large amount of dust is created when cutting Onyx panels or trims. You must wear a dust mask or respirator to avoid inhaling the dust, which can be harmful to your health. You should also wear protective eye gear when using power tools.
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About the Author
Robert Ferguson has been a writer since 2000. His published work includes material for major companies in the home improvement, plumbing, HVAC and power tool industry. Ferguson is a self-employed, licensed building contractor in Florida with more than 30 years of hands on experience experience focusing primarily on residential remodeling, repair, renovation and construction.
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